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The Ins & Outs of Sewing with Rayon

and in today's off-the-cuff episode

we're going to talk about sewing right

on I'll talk about how to prepare it how

to how to put it out how to market so it

press it and hemant we all love rayon I

love this is the beautiful ranch shirt

that I made a while ago and this shirt

has Rihanna as well it's the this one is

the afternoon tea blouse and mine is a

sewing workshop blouse but random can be

a little bit intimidating because it

really is much more slippery than cotton

and much more drapey and and just

prettier so I'm just going to show you

some things that I do to make it easier

to sew it and hopefully it will help you

feel confident to sew rayon rayon is

made from plant fiber but they use a lot

of chemicals to make it into fabric so

some people consider it a natural fiber

and some people consider it as synthetic

I think of it as natural but the

interesting thing about RAM is that it

doesn't like to be wet it gets weaker

when it's wet and it gets really wrinkly

when it's wet so all of our bolts of

rayon say dryclean only

but dryclean only isn't really my my

vibe so I wash it in the machine and

write it in the machine before I sew

with it and if I'm really feeling smart

I washed it and drying it twice to get

all the shrink out hmm but to get ready

for this episode

I decided to experiment with hanging me

out to dry so I have three layers here I

did three half yard cuts of this rayon

batik and this top one I wash my hand

and hung it to dry and you can see

hopefully that there's just a lot of

wrinkles especially at the edges and it

prayed a lot and the one that I watched

by Machine and hung to dry didn't get

quite as wrinkly on the edges and

actually didn't fray quite as much and

then I wish we had feel vision or like

smellivision

this this is the one I washed in the

machine and it's a lot softer than the

ones I mean that I dried in the machine

and then the ones that I dried by

hanging dry you can see that it's very

afraid and there is some wrinkling at

the edges but there actually is a little

less wrinkling with the one that I dried

in the machine so and the all shrimp

trunk about the exact same amount

so I did a 18 inch half yard cut and

they're all about 16 and a half inches

right now so that so in and if you

wanted if you're gonna dry clean your

rayon then you should dry clean the

yardage before you cut it out so that so

when I cut out rayon I like to cut it

out in a single layer because it's just

harder to fold it selvage to selvage and

make sure that the underneath layer is

still really straight so I actually tend

to lay that on the floor so that there

isn't any hanging off of the table and

[Music]

when my cutting pattern pieces that are

supposed to be on the fold so this is

the yoke for the alder shirt dress and

this is the center back please unfold

what I do is first I make sure that this

edge is parallel to the selvages which

I'm not going to do right now and I also

like to cut out rounds with pattern

weights and a rotary cutter so what I do

though if the pattern piece is supposed

to be our center fold I either make a

new pattern piece that has both sides or

I put one half on

fabric and then trace around it and I do

use rulers on the straight edges and

then and I mark these little corners

really well and I will flip the pattern

piece and my corners

and this is I have three layers of rayon

under here so it's but pretend that is

just a single what unfolded layer and

then I'll make sure I would have drawn

this line I'll just make sure that if

there's any straight lines that they are

that they're good and then I'll trace

around this side and cut it out from the

tracings

and I have done that

hmm want this piece so this is those two

this piece cut out twice and so now I'm

going to talk a little bit about marking

and interfacing rayons for marking I

find that our both of ours so we have to

sew line pens this one is a water

erasing and then this one is error

racing and I find that they both work

well on rayon and but the air erasing

one will disappear in 24 to 48 hours so

if you are not going to finish your

project right away you want to use the

water erasing wine oh and a really

important thing when you're sewing with

rayon is to stabilize all the bias edges

so right as soon as I right before I'm

ready to sew something I will use our

woven stay tape on the shoulder seams or

any other bias edges that I'm worried

about

and then I also do directional stay

stitching on the neck edges

[Laughter]

so directional state stitching is

starting from the shoulder seam and

going halfway down the neck and then

starting from the other shoulder seam

and going the other half if you were to

just start at one shoulder seam and keep

going all the way around to the other

you really could distort the fabric by

pushing it so especially with radionics

you want to adhere to the directional

stay stitching rule which is something

that sometimes forget but it is

important another thing about rayon is I

discovered a good interface general

interfacing for RAM which is our perfect

so media so strangely we have perfect

solid here in light and in medium and

medium is the best program because it

actually has some RAM in it and if you

can see that it really maintains the

drape of the fabric and while giving it

a little bit of stability so and it it's

kind of a loosely woven interfacing that

you iron on to the fabric and another

thing I like to do when I sew in the

crayons is block interfacing which is

instead of cutting out a piece of fabric

and a separate piece of interfacing and

then

together and having them move all over

the place I like to just block fuse

maybe you know a square of my fabric

with interfacing and then I cut out both

pieces at the same time from the block

fuse piece and everything just stays so

much more stable in les Whitley

because it'd make it easier to cut yeah

it's way it's easier to cut it it's all

smoother and everything I'd like to do

that oh I also like with rounds and

pretty much all sewing I like I love

tailors packs I feel like they mark your

fabric without and and they mark your

fabric well and you're going to be able

to find them if you start a project one

day and

finish it two weeks later which so in

this series of fabric tips and tricks I

will probably show you how to do a

Taylor's tack almost every time because

I love them

I find that if you're marking kind of in

the middle of a pattern piece even if

you use a nice pen sometimes it doesn't

come out which is terrible and sometimes

you can't find it when it's time to sew

so I'm gonna pretend that there is a dot

on this pattern piece and what I do is I

just put my pin in right where the dot

is and then I can move the pattern piece

out of the way and I have this

hundredweight

kimono silk thread that is super fine we

have it in a few colors and I just do a

single stitch right where the pin comes

out and you can actually do with this

kimono silk thread you can do a pretty a

pretty stout stitch you don't have that

doesn't have to be super loose because

this thread is super easy to pull out

and this way

regardless of when I finish my project

boy I'll have the tailor's tack on the

wrong side and on the right side and

it'll be it'll be there when I need it

and I'll be able to pull the thread out

so that's that oh and with three times

the best threat to use is a cotton

thread polyester thread is so strong

that the seams can't read because the

thread is turned in the fabric and

cotton thread cotton is a similar

strength to rayon so let's talk about

feet and stitches

whenever I start sewing with the

cameraperson instructions

um uh you probably you might not be able

to see it that well but I try a walking

foot I try a regular foot I try a few

different needles and a few different

stitch lengths and even stitches

sometimes they'll try out a narrow

zigzag and so I experimented with a

bigger needle and then a smaller

microtext needle and a walking foot and

2.0 millimeter stitches which is what's

recommended for this fabric and also 2.5

millimeter stitches because the 2.0 is

kind of freaked me out because I feel

like I'm not going to be able to remove

them so I experimented with 2.5 and I

was pretty happy so with this little

experiment I felt good about my size

sixteen microtext needle with a regular

foot but then I decided to try sewing

honestly

lair because I knew I would have to show

you my I knew I'd have to show you my

direction I'll stay stitching and I

wanted to make sure they look good and

so I tried with a regular foot and

walking foot with a single layer and the

walking foot really made it feed through

much more smoothly you can see on this

end where I used a regular foot there's

just a ton of gathering I'm sure that I

could press that out but I didn't press

it out because I wanted to show you the

difference so I think I'm gonna want to

so with a walking foot when I sew when I

sew oh yeah so the view so I do like to

pin my seams before I sew and with RAM

because it's so slippery a ballute

around so much and I always make sure to

use our fine silk pins instead of bigger

pins and then and also new new kings

[Music]

yeah I also experimented with zigzagging

the edges of it around and it is not

pretty

you do need to finish your edges because

you can see how much fraying happens so

if you have a serger I think surging the

edges is good and if you don't have a

serger I think the best thing to do is

use of time scene which is what I almost

always use French seams cuz bran is so

lightweight the French team isn't gonna

add a lot of bulk to your project so

it's a really nice fabric for doing

French seams and finally like our

teleprompter talk about pressing um

because Rams don't like water you should

press with a dry iron on the medium

setting and one of the struggles that

I've had hemming rains is that they're

just so movable so once again when I'm

having my rants I always use a woven

stay tape we have it in multiple widths

this one my favorite is a half inch but

we do have it in an inch if you want to

do a deeper hem so I earn this de tape

against the bottom of my hand and let's

we're just gonna say today we're turning

it up by half an inch twice and so I've

turned it up along the state ape and

then

and I use our double sided fusible stay

tape in the quarter inch width because

it it can kind of gum up your project so

the this state ape has paper on one at

one side and you earn the paper to the

fabric and then peel away the paper and

there is a sticky residue and then when

you turn it up again and I'm just gonna

I always have the most success when I

spin my and to the ironing board and

then press it but so I've got this

sticky residue inside there and then I

just press right on top of the pins and

ironing sets the residue so that it

sticks

and I I put the double sight escaping on

your yesterday but when you iron it pull

off the paper and then press it it kind

of went well the residue is still a

little hot it will it will kind of hold

but so now I've got my hem turned up

it's it's not going anywhere if I want

to sew it by machine that it's it's

going to lay flat if I want to hand sew

it I can hand sew it and everything will

be stable and in place and very

stressful so those are my tips for

sewing right on if you have any

questions there you can ask on Facebook

or YouTube or email any and or even give

us a call and we can talk about it and

if you have any tips please let the rest

of us know next week on the cusp I'm

going to talk about sewing with oil

cloth which is kind of a vinyl because

it's summer is coming and it's time to

get oil cloth to cover our picnic tables

and make lots of fun stuff so I will be

back here next week and this coming

Wednesday I will hopefully be finishing

up my swimsuit and so I have a forward

to seeing event as well bye bye thanks