Retinoids, Retin-A, Retinol for Anti Aging ~ What Works + How To Choose!


hey everybody its Angie and welcome to

hunting flashy

today's video is the start of a new

series that I'm going to be doing and

it's all about anti-aging skincare

active ingredients I'm talking about

creams lotions and potions things that

you can purchase and put on your skin at

home to help fight the visible signs of

aging the point of this series is to

help you choose what you want to use on

your skin as you get older I'm 55 now

when I started my youtube channel was

when I turned 50 and at that point I

kind of woke up one morning looked in

the mirror and was like oh my gosh I

really haven't done myself a service by

roasting my skin in the Sun for the last

o for say 50 years and that's when I

decided to get serious about my skincare

I really hadn't used much in the way of

skincare before that and when I started

trying to figure out what I wanted to

use it was so overwhelming like the

level of choice out there it's just

crazy how many products there are how

many ingredients there are how they all

tell you that there are going to be a

facelift in a bottle or Botox in a

bottle and you know what really is the

truth what can you you know use that is

really gonna make a difference in your

skin so that's kind of what this series

is gonna try to delve into I'm not a

doctor I'm not a chemist I am a user of

skincare like you but I wanted to

educate myself and so I feel like I did

a fairly good job of it and I've seen

the results in my skin so I can say that

my skin has definitely improved by using

all the topicals that I use but I use a

big mix of things and I think that there

is value to using lots of different

topicals so for today's video the first

video we're gonna be taking a look at

the retinoids the retinoids as a group

have the most research behind them and

are considered by the real experts the

dermatologists and the chemists to be

the gold standard of anti-aging

so the retinoids are a group of vitamin

A derivatives and there are lots of

different ones they have been proven by

years and years of study to improve the

look of sun damaged skin so they reduce

the look of wrinkles sagging age spots

and they increase skins firmness do they

all work the same no that's why one

group is prescription and another

is over-the-counter so there are ones

called tretinoin 2-0 teen and adapt

alene those are the prescription

versions they are regulated as a drug

here in the US by the FDA and then over

here we have the over-the-counter

versions these are retinaldehyde retinol

and retinyl palmitate there are others

but I'm just listing the main three here

so over-the-counter means that it's not

regulated as a drug by the FDA so you

can walk into any drug store and pick up

a product off the shelf you don't need a

prescription from your doctor so those

are the actual ingredients that are

listed in the ingredient label but of

course there are brand names that use

those ingredients so some of the brand

names for tretinoin are retina and

Renova - Zahra teen is marketed as Taz

Iraq and adapt alene is indifferent now

on the non prescription side these could

be in just about any product from any

brand so the main brands that sell

over-the-counter retinol products are

Paula's choice Neutrogena rock and the

ordinary to name a few but there are

hundreds and a hundreds of brands that

sell retinol products so of all these

six ingredient names that I've listed

here tretinoin really is the one that is

considered the true gold standard of

anti-aging it's the one with the most

research behind it it's the one that has

been proven effective through years and

years of study so over those years of

study what they've discovered about

tretinoin is that it actually hits

specific retinoid receptors within the

skin to increase collagen production

within the skin our body naturally just

produces less collagen every year as we

get older starting in about our late 20s

or early 30s so anything that can keep

those factories open a little bit longer

producing more collagen is great and the

thing with tretinoin is that it is

directly active absorbable and usable by

your skin so another great thing about

aging is that as you get older your skin

cells the dead cells on the surface

don't turn over and slough off as

quickly as they used to and so tretinoin

helps to speed up that process as well

so it helps to thin out the upper

of your skin which is all dead cells

anyway it's called the stratum corneum

it's a protective layer but it can also

make your skin look a little dull make

it look a little more wrinkled and so by

thinning that out it helps your skin to

have that lip from within glow it helps

it to look a little bit more smooth on

the surface but while it's thinning that

outer dead layer of skin it also

thickens the deeper layers of the skin

through that collagen synthesis so it's

kind of giving your skin the double

whammy of what it needs to look a little

bit younger so that's why it helps with

like plumpness a little bit of firmness

and I've definitely seen it in my own

skin over the five years that I've been

using it in addition to helping skin

generate new collagen it also protects

the collagen you have against continued

UV exposure

so while tretinoin has been studied the

most and is very effective for

anti-aging it also does come along with

some side effects it can be irritating

there it can be some peeling with it

your skin can become red and painful and

extra dry and it can look generally ten

years older instead of ten years younger

what they've actually found in a study

is that the peeling the redness the

burning the irritation that isn't what

makes tretinoin work tretinoin works

because it hits those specific retinoid

receptors within the skin so you don't

need the peeling you don't need the

burning you don't need the irritation

and the dryness for this to work in your

skin so in my book then that is all to

be avoided and the way to avoid it is to

ease in really slowly with it and work

your way up over time

because it does take time for this to

work over the first year I'd say it took

me like nine months before I really

started seeing any difference in my skin

and it was really not until like a year

and a half in that I was really seeing

good changes that made me be like yes

this is good I want to stick with it

I've only been using it for five years

and I wish I had started so much earlier

I wish I had known about it much much

younger and the people that I've seen

that have them have the best results

with it are people who have been using

it for like twenty years

people who also stayed out of the Sun or

use sun protection of course being you

know Sun worshiper I did neither so I'm

paying for that now but at least is

something I can do

kind of mitigate some of it and for me

that works so it is kind of a lifestyle

change if you're going to choose to use

a retinoid you've got to commit to using

the retinoid for long enough to see any

results you have to commit to like

easing in with it if that's what your

skin needs and you really need to commit

to sunscreen because that is really the

thing that is going to keep you from

getting any more sun damage because you

know why would you do all this work to

get rid of the sun damage on your skin

and then keep inviting more sun damage

in alright so let's just talk a little

bit about products currently I'm using

the generic tretinoin this is the 0.1%

cream there are gel forms there are

cream forms there are more emollient

cream forms for people with dry skin so

my advice is always to talk to a

professional about where you should

start they can gauge your skin type and

tell you which form you need to use and

then they will prescribe it for you I

get mine at the drugstore

sometimes my insurance covers it

sometimes it doesn't this is getting

very expensive if your insurance won't

cover it

but sometimes my insurance does cover it

and then it's a $10 copay I'm like okay

there is a service called good rx comm

and you can download a coupon if your

insurance won't cover it and that will

defray the cost in some other countries

this is not a prescription product it's

just over-the-counter so in my travels

around the planet I picked up some

retin-a in Spain one times it's the same

active ingredient you can also get this

over-the-counter in Mexico so if you're

just traveling through the airport

stopped at the airport pharmacy and pick

up a couple of tubes if you want and

it's like $12 there you can buy this

online there are Canadian pharmacies but

you have to have a prescription to go

through them and if you do you can get

it filled and shipped to the States

there is a new service that I just

started trying this month called cure

ology this is $19.99 or 95 a month so 20

bucks a month basically and you're on

auto refill but basically what you do is

you snap a couple of pics of your face

you upload them to their site and they

have doctors and dermatologists there

who will be your personal consultant and

then they'll suggest a formula for you

based on what your skin concerns are so

my custom mix contains point 0 9 %

tretinoin it can

1% clindamycin which is another

prescription acne medication and it

contains 5% azalea Cassatt which is for

lightening up red and coloration in your

skin so I was really psyched about that

and actually I've been using this for a

month already and can I tell you my skin

has never been clearer like I've always

been prone to breakouts and I really

couldn't stand it being you know

wrinkles and pimples but this has been

really great and I had a great chat with

my provider and they're there for to

answer your questions so if you start

using it you're having a problem with

your skin you just email them or text

them and they answer your question so

it's kind of like having an online

dermatologist right there so if you're

interested in checking out ecology there

is a link in the information box below

the video they are offering the first

month for free I think you just paste

shipping let me know if you want to see

a full video just on ecology I can

definitely do that but for some people

it could be a really good option okay so

I believe that we've pretty much covered

everything there is to cover about


the other prescription retinoids to zero

teen and adapt alene I don't know that

much about them but to zero teen is

considered to be a little bit more

effective I think than tretinoin at

least from the study that I read but

it's also the most irritating of the

prescription retinoids ad abilene is

considered to be the best tolerated of

the prescription

retinoids but it may be less effective

on sun damage than some of the other

options it's brand name is different but

adapt alene just was released last year

as an over-the-counter medication as

well so when you get the prescription

form it comes in strengths of like 0.3%

0.2% the over-the-counter one is a lower

percentage it's 0.1% so here is the

different gel this is available in the

acne aisle at most drugstores the

studies that have been done are

promising and so if you just you know

can't get the prescription and you want

to use the strongest thing that you can

get from the drugstore then different is

your guy but again be careful just

because it's considered to be better

tolerated than you know tretinoin or

something else it doesn't mean that you

can instantly go into it five days a

week and not have any problems I can't

use my tretinoin on my neck it's just

too sensitive it gets too irritated so I

went out and I got this

started putting it on five days a week

and shocker

it was so irritating my neck was red it

looked awful so you know even with

something like this even with an

over-the-counter retinol just please be

careful just you know dip your toe in

first to start a so that was my

experience with that I would like to try

to work up to this on my neck still but

currently I'm using more just the

retinol products for my neck so let's go

into the over-the-counter retinoids now

the main difference between the

prescription products and the

over-the-counter products is that the

over-the-counter products are not in the

form that is immediately available to

your skin the over-the-counter retinoids

need to be converted by your skin before

they can be used so they're not in their

active form like the prescription

products are and so these conversion

processes can be a one-step process or a

two-step process depending on which

active ingredient you're getting so you

kind of have to be able to read an

ingredient label to figure out what

you're getting because unfortunately

where this is not a regulated area of

the industry it can say retinol on the

label but it can be a different type of

retinol not exactly retinol inside so

retinol has become kind of a blanket

term in over-the-counter world for all

the over-the-counter retinol when really

they're quite different so probably the

most effective of the over-the-counter

retinoids aside from different is the

retinaldehyde and that's because that

one only needs to do a one-step

conversion inside your skin for it to be

used so it is considered to be more

effective than retinol and also less

irritating than tretinoin so it could be

a good choice if your skin can just

never acclimate to a prescription

product so the product that i've used

that has retinaldehyde in it is the

event retinol 0.1 intensive cream I like

things that tell you how much of it is

in there because you can read all the

clinical trials you want and they can

show that they got results using a

certain percentage of an ingredient but

if that same percentage of the

ingredient isn't in the product that

you're using then you're not going to

see the same results right so the

studies on retinaldehyde or

using between point zero five percent

and 0.1 percent so this has 0.1% so it's

in there in the right concentration I

did use this on my neck for a few months

and I didn't have irritation from it I

liked it very much my neck looked pretty

good retinaldehyde is really not

commonly found in your over-the-counter

retinoid products most of them use

retinol and retinol needs to be

converted in a two-step process in your

skin in order to be used and in order to

see results but retinol seems to have

the most study of the over-the-counter

preparations and it has been proven to

work overtime the general consensus is

that it's 10 to 20 times weaker than a

prescription retinoid is but it is a

good like gateway thing so that you can

ECLA mate your skin to using a retinoid

they're much less irritating than say

your prescription retinoid and so you

could use it for three or six months

first to kind of get acclimated and then

bump up to something stronger some of

the ones that I have used in the past

and really liked are the dr. Brandt 2% a

retinol complex serum this one has 2%

retinol in there I have completely used

this guy up over the last two months I

really like this one I've used on my

neck I've had no irritation so that one

was awesome there's the Paula's Choice

clinical one percent retinol treatment

Paula's Choice makes a lot of good

retinol products it tells you how much

of it is in there and they're well

formulated their fragrance free and this

one is not irritating on my skin I

really like that then another one I

tried is the Sarah V skin renewing cream

serum I had used this one for a long

time on my neck I saw really good

results with it another brand that's

really good with their over-the-counter

retinol is the Neutrogena brand this is

the Neutrogena rapid wrinkle repair

serum so that's a good one to use I have

used this one I did get a little bit of

irritation on my neck from this one so I

don't tend to use this one so much

another Neutrogena product that I did a

whole video on is their rapid wrinkle

repair regenerating cream and this one

is fragrance free they did come out with

a fragrance free one which is great

unfortunately with the drugstore they

don't tell you how much is in there so

you don't really know then of course at

a lower price point there are the

ordinary products

two of their retinoid products these two

that I have here are not retinol they do

have standard retinol products but these

are retinol esters

so the retinol esters in general they

are supposed to be less effective than

retinol because they have to go through

even more of a conversion process but

some of the newer ones they're saying

are actually supposed to be more

effective than retinol so on the esters

I don't tend to use the esters so if

something says that it's a retinol and

it says retinol palmitate or retinol

propionate or retinol in EO late on the

label I tend to stay away from that and

just go for straight old retinol but the

ordinary has come out with some new

generation retinols retinoids that are

esters and they are supposed to be more

effective than retinol with less

irritation you know I haven't seen the

studies on these I don't know I know

there's very little study on them but

anyway that's what they claim they

certainly are cheap enough to try I have

tried to I have the advanced retinoid 2%

and I have the grand active retinoid 2%

in squalane I kind of like this squalane

one I've used a bit of it I probably

used it for three weeks just to see if I

would get any irritation from it and I

didn't this is in an oil base this one

did give me some irritation so I stopped

using that I got a little redness and a

little funkiness over there so so as you

can see the world of retinoids is very

complex it's very confusing but I think

the main takeaway is that through the

research and the study I think it's been

shown that it is worth using some kind

of a retinoid and to use it over time is

probably the best thing that you can do

for your aging skin besides protecting

it from the Sun it's definitely

something that I want to continue using

both eye over-the-counter retinoid and a

prescription retinoid so if you found

the video helpful and informative give

it a thumbs up and subscribe to my

channel as always I thank you for

watching and really appreciate your time

so take care and have a great day I'll

see you in the next video bye